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5000 msnm. Un niño de una de las comunidades que rodean el nevado Ocongate, el más alto de Cusco y uno de los de mayor importancia para los incas, ayuda a sus padres en el arreo del caballo. Ellos son criadores de alpacas. La señora diariamente tiene que subir hasta el nevado donde tiene una cabaña. Dice que con el frío la fibra de la alpaca es más larga y sedosa.

Texto y fotos: José Calderón/ Eric Dañino

¿Que se entiende por desarrollo en una zona aislada de pronto atavesada por una carretera? Es el gran desafío. La Corporación Andina de Fomento, una de las financistas de la carretera Interoceánica Sur ya tiene un esquema y acaba de enviar a su primera ejecutiva en el Perú, Eleonora Silva Pardo, directora representante de la Corporación Andina de Fomento (CAF) en el Perú, a Cusco y Madre de Dios, para inspeccionar los diferentes proyectos de apoyo a las poblaciones de la zona de influencia de la Carretera Interoceánica Sur (IIRSA Sur).

Desde este blog, aportamos algunos datos nuestros sobre el estado de las cosas.
Alpacas pacen en la alturas de Ocongate

Hasta donde este blog pudo ver a lo largo de la carretera, las iniciativas individuales de desarrollo son pocas, pero empiezan a inclinarse por cultivos alternativos, como la siembra de sacha inchi en Quincemil (Ver foto), y hay experimentos en café (aunque los suelos son pobres), venta de menús a los trabajadores de las obras, y comercio de piedras (a un sol el metro cúbico) a los trabajadores de las empresas concesionarias.

En cuanto a café, una fuente de este medio recibió la versión de que la empresa cafetalera y torrefactora Romero Trading estaría interesada en tierras, aunque la versión fue desmentida por su gerente general, Fernando Romero.

Algo que encontramos sumamente interesante para la explotación fue el cultivo de orquídeas, que encontramos por todos lados en las zonas mas altas de la selva, tal como se aprecia en la foto inferior. También, dada su historia y riqueza cultural, pensamos en la posibilidad de realizar un museo de sitio.


Orquideas enanas en Marcapata

Los problemas

El problema para el desarrollo en la zona de la selva alta, es decir, entre los límites entre Cusco y Madre de Dios, es el avance de los cocaleros de la jungla de Puno, que están aproximándose preligrosamente a los territorios demandados por los productores de oro. Históricamente estas tierras fueron colonizadas por los mineros y están dispuestos a defender con armas sus dominios. Todo este conflicto en potencia es alimentado por una difusa demarcación de los límites de Puno y Cusco.
No obstante, ambas actividades, cocalera y aurífera, son peligrosas para el medio ambiente, cuando urgen programas de desarrollo alternativo eficientes, realistas, rentables -no es un secreto lo poco ambiciosos que han sido en diversos casos- y con el escutrinio independiente y sanamente crítico de la prensa.

Una fuente de este medio supo que organismos antidrogas gubernamentales, como DeVida, ya están preocupados por lo que pueda significar el crecimiento de los cocales en stas áreas y el tráfico de drogas de esta zona hacia Brasil. Una fuente policial que no quiso identificar dijo a este blog que este tráico es muy fuerte en la zona de Iberia (Madre de Dios-Perú) y la selva de Pando (Bolivia) y Acre (Brasil) .

Otro problema que puede verse para el desarrollo de los pueblos de las márgenes de la carretera es la lentitud con la cual Brasil lleva adelante los trámites para aceptar productos agrícolas del Perú, prefiriendo traerlos de Sao Paulo. La homologación de criterios entre sus servicios de control sanitario y el SENASA-Perú no dispone de voluntad política para cristallizarse. Ana María Enciso, responsable de Promperu en el sur peruana dijo a este medio que al menos pasarían 7 años hasta que se llegue a un acuerdo.

Mientras tanto, no existe posibilidad de que los pobladores de las alturas, productores de magníficas papas nativas, puedan tener alguna alternativa de mejorar sus economías, via mercado de Brasil, y a su vez mostrar un desarrollo agrícola.

Esta señora crea sus artesanías de usanza común entre los pobladores del viejo Antisuyo inca, en las cimas de los andes orientales, paso previo a la bajada interoceánica hacia la selva

Dentro de lo positivo, la carretera, en su tramo Urcos-Ocongate, ha influido notablemente para el desplazamiento en junio reciente de decenas de miles de personas a la peregrinación religiosa via Cusco-Urcos, hacia el nevado Coylloriti, beneficiando a las comunidades tributarias al sincrético santuario como Mahuallani, en las proximidades de Tinki, en Ocongate.



Este hombre vive en Quincemil. Su apuesta de desarrollo pasa por experimentos con el cultivo de sacha inchi

La CAF propone

En el mismo sentido de brindar una posibilidad de desarrollo para estas comunidades, en la página web de la CAF se informa que sus ejecutivos en Perú supervisaron el Proyecto Piloto de Desarrollo de Capacidades productivas de gestión de los criadores de alpacas de Quispicanchis para el mejoramiento de camélidos, que lleva adelante el Programa de Apoyo a la Competitividad (PAC) de la CAF y el Fondo de las Américas en beneficio de mil familias de 15 comunidades de los distritos de Ocongate y Marcapata.
Lo que pudo observar este blog es que en las alturas, los mismos criadores de camélidos, habían empezado una fuerte campaña para castrar a las llamas y evitar que se reproduzcan el cruce con las alpacas compradas en Sicuani, Puno.

El matrimonio a la antigua en pleno siglo XXI. Se espera que la carretera Interoceánica no termine con esta tradición de Marcapata



Niños de Quincemil juegan sobre la muralla. Las peligrosas serpientes jergonas pululan estos lugares.

Artesanías

La delegación de la CAF, asimismo , verificó los avances del proyecto para el mejoramiento y diversificación de las artesanías ecológicas. Los pobladores de las alturas de Ocongate son artesanos pro naturaleza, y desarrollaon esta actividad en virtud al flujo de andinistas internacionales que llegaban para escalar los diversos nevados. No obstante, el calentamiento mundial viene significando un retroceso en la masa gélida al extremo que este año los peregrinadores que llegaron a Coylloriti, desistieron de cumpir con su ancestral ritual de llevarse a cuestas un trozo de helo del nevado en señal de sacrificio. No lo hicieron, según nos informaron, por que "el nevado se está quedando sin hielo".

En cuanto a otras iniciativas de desarrollo de la CAF y la Asociación Odebrecht, se informó que estas favorecen a cien familias de artesanos, organizados en diez asociaciones.
Hay que señalar que las personas que viven alrededor de estos nevados son conocedores de las propiedades medicinales de plantas de poderes inimaginables que crecen de manera silvestre. No se sabe si se está monitoreando este tema.

Educación

Sin embargo, se supo que las instituciones mencionadas vienen poniendo en marcha un proyecto educativo que se ejecuta en la localidad de Urcos, en coordinación con la ONG canadiense Right to Play, la cual comprende el desarrollo de un método de enseñanza preescolar, a través del juego y la recreación.

En cuanto a educación, este blog se hizo presente en las comunidades dispersas en las alturas de Ocongatey y junto a la ecologista suiza, Kathia Balmer, expuso lo que significaba el cambio climático, y las razones por las cuales nevados cercanos como el Apacheta o Ausangate mostraban año a año menos cantidad de nieve. Ninguno de los comuneros habían escuchado antes estos argumentos.



Periodista Jose Calderón, con los estragos de una noche gélida, posa con niño hijo de alpaqueros al costado del nevado Ausangate.

Zona de amortiguamento

En cuanto a otros esfuerzos de desarrollo de la CAF, la delegación llegó hasta el departamento de Madre de Dios, donde se ejecuta el proyecto de consolidación de la zona de amortiguamiento de la Reserva Nacional de Tambopata que impulsa la CAF y la ONG Pronaturaleza, a fin de aplicar buenas prácticas en ecoturismo y desarrollar productos que incentivan la conservación del bosque y el desarrollo comunitario productivo local, en beneficio de 200 familias de tres pueblos nativos y 3.700 comuneros de cinco comunidades locales.

Infelimente, este blog supo que la selva seguía siendo vulnerada y que ya se estaba conectando por nuevas trocas clandestinas las localidades como Mazuco -donde se explota oro- con el poblado de Infierno, (comunidad amarakeri donde se hacen rituales de ayahuasca). Todo esto afecta la vida de los nativos amarakeris quienes están perdiendo su identidad.



Este sacerdote danés realiza la misa matrimonial en el antiquísimo templo de MArcapata. En este templo rezaban los antiguos buscadores de oro.

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